Is Tretinoin banned in Europe?

If you're interested in anti-aging products, skin lightening, or have acne woes it's very likely that you have heard of Tretinoin. This ingredient can be found in popular skincare items like Retin-A, and is very effective...but why has Europe supposedly banned its use? Europe is always a forerunner in both the beauty and health-food industry because they commonly back their claims by scientific evidence and generally err on the side of caution.

SO WHAT IS IT?

Tretinoin is synthetic Vitamin A. It works by increasing skin cell turnover, rapidly. If you have used it before you'll recall that your skin peels revealing brand new, soft skin with a peachy glow. Tretinoin is available in some European countries by prescription only, it is closely monitored because of its side effects which range from drastic skin peeling to altering the skins function. Let's take a closer look at a few of these side effects:

Drastic peeling makes the skin more susceptible to UV damage therefore making it more prone to skin cancer [1].

Damaging the skins natural barrier function can have serious consequences because the natural barrier serves as protection from toxins, allergens and harmful bacteria [2].

When considering its toxicity, European scientists weighed the risks of birth defects and have stated that while topical Tretinoin is less likely to cause birth defects because the amount of medication absorbed through the skin is minimal, scientific evidence regarding a related drug called isotretinoin (taken orally) displays a risk of face, heart, and brain defects in developing fetuses (feti) [3].

SO WHAT ARE OTHER OPTIONS?

I'll be the first to tell you that there will not be other ingredients that work as quickly, or as effectively as Tretinoin, but there are some healthy options that work similarly without the side effects:

Rose Hips have naturally occurring Vitamin A which helps to regenerate skin by helping the skin rid itself of dead skin cells. Jojoba, and Green Tea have a similar effect. (see our Renewing Face Oil and Hemp + Green Tea Cleanser)

Light Exfoliation with a product that isn't harsh like our Coconut Super Fruit Facial Polish removes dead skin cells revealing "fresh" skin that glows!

As always, personal education is key! I attached some citations if you'd like to weigh the pros and cons of topical Tretinoin personally.

[1] Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-48. doi: 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327. PMID: 18046911; PMCID: PMC2699641.

[2] Kanwar AJ. Skin barrier function. Indian J Med Res. 2018 Jan;147(1):117–8. doi: 10.4103/0971-5916.232013. PMCID: PMC5967208.

[3] Mother To Baby | Fact Sheets [Internet]. Brentwood (TN): Organization of Teratology Information Specialists (OTIS); 1994-. Topical Tretinoin. 2022 Oct. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK582989/

Why we sub glycerin for hyaluronic acid. It's not why you think!

As a natural skin care customer are you a fan of hyaluronic acid? I have heard many reasons why my customers don't like hyaluronic acid. Ranging from: "Hyaluronic Acid is bad because its production involves rooster combs", or simply because it's "synthetic". While I do feel bad for those poor roosters subjected to science, I'm going to take a deeper dive at the real science behind hyaluronic acid, and the scientific reason why I do not formulate my products using this ingredient.

Hint: it's not what you think.

Hyaluronic acid and glycerin are both considered "humectants". You have probably heard the word "humectant" in relation to skin care before. The term usually implies that the product "grabs moisture". In the case of hyaluronic acid, marketing has taught viewers that by applying this molecule to your skin, it will attract moisture from the air making your skin appear more hydrated and visibly plump. While this isn't completely false, it also isn't completely true.

Humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin don't necessarily work as magnets that attract water... nor do they powerfully pull water to the skin from the atmosphere. How humectant molecules work is via hydrogen bonds. In order for a humectant to bind it has to bump into water. This can't be done from a long distance. For example: A humectant on your skins surface is not going to attract moisture from the sky on a rainy day. In order to bind, humectant molecules need to bump into the water that is already present in/on your skin.

The reason I prefer glycerin in our hydrating products like the Rose Water + Gardenia Cleanser is because glycerin molecules are a similar molecular size to water. In fact, the molecule is so small it can actually fit into aquaporins (water channels). Some research suggests that glycerin can replace water in your skin because it can travel through this membrane. Hyaluronic acid being a much larger molecule sits on the skins surface rather than absorbing.

With glycerin deep within the skin, you will not only experience skin hydration, but skin hydration that lasts for a longer period of time since it evaporates more slowly than water alone.

With that, I do not have a dislike for hyaluronic acid, I simply choose to formulate our products with a more effective, and long lasting hydrating ingredient.

Have questions or comments? Let me know your thoughts!

Minuet